It’s been almost 2 weeks and I am still processing the trip to see the places where an earlier life fought and died in the First World War.
So much of the area hasn’t changed much. There’s somewhat more development, for sure, but on the whole the trip there left me with chills at how many of these villages don’t look much different than they did 111 years ago.
I found Ypres to be disorienting and a bit uncomfortable but not for the reasons one might think. Sure, the postwar reconstruction of the city felt almost like a bandage on a horrendous scar but that was to the benefit of the survivors who only wanted to go home at war’s end.
What I found most dismaying was the British “remembrance” culture which turned battlefields and cities rebuilt as monuments into something like an amusement park. I was already aware that there was a literal amusement park atop Bellewaerde Ridge which I had mixed feelings about; but Ypres itself was another matter. The local car dealers had their 2026/27 models on display, bouncy castles were set up, and food carts were selling Bratwurst for 8 Euros around the Cloth Hall. The simulacra of the old city created after the war was a little too perfect. And all around were British veterans walking around with their chests covered in their medals as if they’d been there at Ypres (I would venture a guess most of them were probably about the age to have been in Vietnam before the Americans arrived).
My distaste for the shallowness of their remembrance was such that I left Ypres before the Last Post, with no desire to stay for it.
At Sanctuary Wood children played in the restored trenches which, besides being the likely grave of 40 or 50 men who were never recovered (either because their bodies were never found or because they were simply aerosolized), is a very dangerous place due to jagged metal, potential fall hazards, chemicals that still left a sickly slick in the shell holes, and tunnels that I was not keen on going into given their age and likely condition. And in the gift shop there were a number of pins with very ugly AI-generated poppies that I found very distasteful.
On the whole I could have done without their so-called “remembrances” and would have been happier to find only a few thoughtful people quietly reflecting on what happened in that place instead of families treating it like a trip to Disneyland.
Besides Ferme Buterne, the place that affected me the most was Railway Wood. Not only were there few people around to make silly remarks about the large craters throughout the wood, but all along its edge I found pieces of shrapnel and even an unspent .303 cartrdge, ripped open by a plow to expose the unburnt cordite within.
It was at Railway Wood and the surrounding fields that some of the darkest memories of Jack’s life took place.When I tried to tell my German friend who had driven me there about it, the words just died on my lips before I could even get them out.
I had been reluctant to even go on this trip; I had been avoiding these emotions for many years, trying to convince myself that I had healed and left it all behind, or that it never happened.
Instead what I found was that it is all still very real to me, and there is some residual pain after all that I haven’t addressed.
Doing this project- coming to these places with a compliment of cameras and a heavy heart- seems to have been good for me. But I may be processing these feelings for as long as I live (and hopefully no longer; bringing this pain into yet another life would be a bad fate).





